In a very basic Western skincare routine, there’s a cleanser, a toner, then a moisturizer. So for the longest time, I thought cleansing and toning were the simplest steps. Cleansers just gets rid of whatever’s on my face and toners were supposed to take off anything left over… that’s about it right?
Oh boy oh boy was I wrong.
An tiny anecdote
When I was a teenager, I dabbled with numerous cleansers. Anything that would help my awkward acne-ridden face. If it smelled nice, extra brownie points. But none of them helped. As soon as I grew out of those teenage acne days, I just used water to clean my face out of sheer frustration.
Until I got a complete regimen from Origins (as mentioned in my last post). My face was relatively the same. With the exception of a new tiny whiteheaded zit that would show up randomly on my face. Most of the time it was my forehead. Then a random one on my nose. Or my chin. It seemed like I got a new one every day. I didn’t understand why. I was doing everything right. I followed the regimen so carefully. What was going wrong?
I later learned about how I should have patch tested to see how my skin would react to each product. Since I was months into this routine, I didn’t think it would make sense to individually patch test everything. So I troubleshooted and stared at the first thing that would hit my face- the cleanser.
But how could a cleanser affect my face that much? It just stays on my face for maybe a minute and then I wash it off. It shouldn’t change a thing.
And then it hit me: I read on numerous blogs about how the face has a natural pH is around 5 – 5.5. They explained it more eloquently and scientifically, but as I understood it anything more than that can disrupt the face’s skin barrier.
I remembered I had some pH strips from old middle school science projects. I tested my cleanser and it showed up as a 9. WAY. TOO. HIGH. It can’t be. It has to be the old pH strip’s fault. So I did what any other millennial would do: I Googled reviews about it. And it was was right: it’s been tested to be very alkaline. That clean but very, very drying feeling proved it was too basic for my skin.
The same went for my toner. It was evidence enough that my skin felt tight after using it. I didn’t bother testing the pH since I already felt deceived.
All about hydration
It’s been slightly ingrained in the Western skincare world that the more drying a product feels, the more effective the product is. “It strips all the dirt away.” Nope nope nope. Giant stop sign.
Eastern skincare is all about hydration. In order to have healthy skin, you need to have it properly hydrated. Just like we should be drinking 8 glasses of water a day, we need to give our skin a good amount of love too. And that starts with cleansers.
Tip #1: Find a cleanser that has a pH close to 5 – 5.5
^ You’ll read that almost anywhere when learning about Asian skincare, but I really can’t stress it enough. It’s an important tip that I wish I knew before going gung-ho into a routine.
Tip #2: Get a toner that hydrates
^ Double the hydration, double the fun. Now that your skin is clean and at the right pH level, using a hydrating toner will prepare your face to be ready and willing to soak up all the treatments you have in store for it in the essences/serum/ampoule step
There are also pH adjusting toners out there that will lower your face’s pH on application. I don’t have one in my arsenal, but they are very handy if you don’t mind having a high pH cleanser and/or you don’t have the time to wait when you use an active.
And yes, I intentionally left out the wonderful world of oil cleansing. It deserves a post on its own. I’ll save that for another day, with a review on one of the first Korean skincare products I ever bought.
Until next time (very soon!),
xx Snuffy